- Measurements:
- 1.
Distance from the end of the receiver to the leadpipe venturi.
- 2.
Engagement of the mouthpiece shank into the leadpipe.
- 3.
Exit diameter of the mouthpiece shank.
- 4.
Leadpipe venturi.
- 5.
Exit wall thickness or the mouthpiece shank.
- 6.
Internal diameter of the receiver.
-
- We use a formula to set gap.
A change of .001" on the diameter of the shank
will cause a difference of about .020" in the gap distance. You may need to
take your horn and have a professional measure it. If you do it at home
make sure you do it several times and your numbers repeat. If these
numbers are set exact to this formula you will have the optimum or Zero Gap.
-
- If the gap is greater it is a positive (+) gap
measurement and the result will be a bit more resistance, although, the
horn will slot and speak well. If the gap is less it is a minus (-) gap
measurement and the result will cause less resistance, as well as,
difficulty slotting. Some players like this condition and prefer the gap to
the minus side.
- If your gap is measured
correctly and you find it within
- .030" of the Zero positions
you should be fine.
-
- Formula: Exit wall of mouthpiece (#5) multiplied
times 5.
- Example, exit wall of mouthpiece = .025" X 5=.
125" .
-
-
Next take Venturi (#4) and subtract
it from the Receiver ID (#6). You will need to divide this number by
“2” to find the” effective wall thickness” of the leadpipe, and finally
multiply the” effective wall thickness” by 1.5.
-
- Example, Venturi is .345" and
Receiver ID is .385. Subtract .345 from .385 and divide it by 2, you get an
effective leadpipe wall of .020, multiply it by 1.5 =.030" . Now add the
.125 and .030 and you get a Zero Gap of .155.
-
- We find this formula to work very well. If you are
getting good results there is no need for change. If you make a change
measure the gap and calculate the change. It is not expensive to have the
Gap adjusted. We recommend you set your gap and leave it alone. Constant
change in this area will cause your playing to be insecure.