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Measurements:
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1.
Distance from the end of the receiver to the leadpipe venturi.
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2.
Engagement of the mouthpiece shank into the leadpipe.
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3.
Exit diameter of the mouthpiece shank.
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4.
Leadpipe venturi.
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5.
Exit wall thickness or the mouthpiece shank.
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6.
Internal diameter of the receiver.
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We use a formula to
set gap. A change of .001" on the diameter of the shank will
cause a difference of about .020" in the gap distance. You
may need to take your horn and have a professional measure it.
If you do it at home make sure you do it several times
and your numbers repeat. If these numbers are set exact to this
formula you will have the optimum or Zero Gap.
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If the gap is
greater it is a positive (+) gap measurement and the result will
be a bit more resistance, although, the horn will slot and speak
well. If the gap is less it is a minus (-) gap measurement and
the result will cause less resistance, as well as, difficulty
slotting. Some players like this condition and prefer the gap to
the minus side.
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If your gap is
measured correctly and you find it within
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.030" of the Zero
positions you should be fine.
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Formula: Exit wall
of mouthpiece (#5) multiplied times 5.
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Example, exit wall
of mouthpiece = .025" X 5=. 125" .
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Next take Venturi (#4) and
subtract it from the Receiver ID (#6). You will need to divide
this number by “2” to find the” effective wall thickness” of the
leadpipe, and finally multiply the” effective wall thickness” by
1.5.
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Example, Venturi is
.345" and Receiver ID is .385. Subtract .345 from .385 and
divide it by 2, you get an effective leadpipe wall of .020,
multiply it by 1.5 =.030" . Now add the .125 and .030 and you
get a Zero Gap of .155.
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We find this
formula to work very well. If you are getting good results there
is no need for change. If you make a change measure the gap and
calculate the change. It is not expensive to have the Gap
adjusted. We recommend you set your gap and leave it alone.
Constant change in this area will cause your playing to be
insecure.